Museo Del Prado

It starts with a huge sculpture of Velazquez mounted on his mighty charge then gets going as one of the best galleries in the world. If you like blood, dismemberment, gashes, slits and cuts deep in human flesh, disfigurement, cannibalism, classical gore and all things Goya, then this is the place for you. There are also naked fat babes, court portraits and rooms upon rooms for various biblical scenes. I think I saw the same bible story of Judith bathing about six times. I really liked the mythical stuff: very beastial and dark. They all really like Jesus and seem to like him best either half naked with slightly blue/grey skin in some tortored, dead or nearly dead pose or as fat, sweet baby Jesus. Me, I prefer fat, sweet baby cheeses; so what ever your preference Madrid has it for you.

There was a special exhibition of Rembrant and I saw some of those pictures that are in the public psyche, but you don´t realise it till you see them. The texture was really arresting. The ones he painted at the end of his life seemed more simply composed and reflective, but perhaps I've overdosed on gallery jargon.

My favourite for the day was Las Meninas, a portrait of a brat with blonde hair and her courtisans. Finally, I staggered out into the last of the daylight and chatted to a lovely young Indonesian/Singporean/Canadian guy who bubbled on full of life's offerings. It was a very healthy debrief.

I tried to go to a flamenco club last night but the 20 euro ($50) cover charge stopped me. Tonight, I have my eye on a jazz bar. Ham is everything and everywhere. I found a produce market and became overwhelmed with the assortment of types of ham. I will go back tomorrow and try to point at something in a meaningful manner. I am pleased with myself for managing to buy a little bag of olives, huge green, almost, crunchy with bits of lemon rind in the mix. I am telling you these things not because I want to make you jealous, but because I know that want to hear about all things I eat. The beer is lovely and I even drank sangria and enjoyed it, never thought that would happen!