Downtown Mexico (pronounced Me/hi/co)

I wish I could find a way to upload photos. Even the small bedrooms at the hostel have murals of giant flowers.

Today's adventure was a trip to the education dept office. It is all built around a courtyard in colonial style and it is enormous. The building is three stories high and all of the walls facing the courtyards on each floor has a mural. The is more than 1km of murals. Diego Riveria and has helpers produced this. The scale is amazing, and even though I am not so crazy about his particular style, they are effective. They are symbolic as well as literal, but they are easy to decode. Some of the more simple ones depict images such as a strong man with a hammer and sickle lapel pin bringing workers, peasants and soldiers together, others relate to the aztec culture and some are a little more abstract. The whole thing in free and there were very few people walking around looking at the murals. Even Charles said that being forced to study art history was a drag, but he is glad now looking at this and all the museums we saw in New York. Mexico particularly has the feel of art for the people, where as everything in New York emits the sense of art for the privileged.

Today in the Zocolo (central sqare of the town) we saw a break dancing group. The are absolutely professional, well organised and did things with their bodies that should not be possible. Even after seeing contortionists in Circe de Soliel, these street performers still impress. They were thin and young and energetic, I am convinced that they were dislocating limbs at will.

We also went to an artisan market. Most of the stuff was really junk, most of the stuff, except for the food. We ate things that we cannot name and it was wonderful. The only problem is that we wanted to try it all and at a certain point we just had to surrender.

On Monday we have booked to go to San Miguel de Allende on a bus and will just stay one night. I spent last night with a really great couple from Sweden and Charles hung out with a bunch of young assorted folk. All up thet best people we have met have been an Australian couple Dave and Bonnie. Usually when overseas the sensible thing to do is avoid other Aussies but these two are the most well travelled, interesting couple. They both work on luxury boats that sail out of Fort Lauderdale in Florida. All the boats are flagged to countries other than America so they don't need a green card. When they work, they live in cramped conditions and they work very long hours, but they pay no food or rent. Then they get paid, quite well actually, then they collect tips, big tips, sometimes really really big tips. Anyone can do this work, all you need to do is a one week sea safety course and you have the qualification to be a deck hand. Young Aussies are preferred, and there is a dire shortage of crew. They admit that the money is so good, it is hard to leave and do anything else. They have sailed the whole world and have almost enough to buy a hostel at Byron Bay.This is all well before the age of 30.

The thing is they took Charles under their wing and you guessed it have lined all the information and given him their email addresses for any other questions. They have spelt out the dangers and traps to avoid, as well as telling him how to get the right visa. I am not kidding! Charles does not even want to come back home (but he will, if only to save up enough money to return). We have checked it all out on the internet and everything they say is true!

The altitude dizziness has faded, but Charles is tired today. We re feeling quite safe and comfortable. Even when we cannot work out the money and just offer a big denomination note we seem to get back the right change. We managed the subway by ourselves.I know this is not India, but I am still sickened by the poverty, today's horror was a man with no arms or legs on the ground on a piece of cardboard outside a church begging. Heart breaking!